ring sling with overlapping pleat shoulder

Remaining points: 0, for in-stock fabric slings/accessories sewn and sent the week of May 12-16 (What are points?)
Next scheduled renewal: May 16, 12pm Eastern time.

sling construction:

Sewing details in brief:

• Overlapping pleat "cups" your shoulder easily, without lots of complicated adjustments.
• Cut edges are hemmed (folded under and sewn), not serged (finished with thread only).
• The hem is on the outside of the sling when it's worn, so it doesn't cut into your baby's legs.
• I use only rings manufactured specifically for baby slings by SlingRings.com, as I find them superior in safety, weight, and appearance.
• All fabrics are chosen for their softness, durability, and strength. I do not use calico fabrics, as they are simply not suitable for slings (for more information, see the fabric FAQ on my Do It Yourself pages).
• Every sling is customized -- I don't sew it until you've ordered it. Length, color, fabric, and additions are all chosen by you, for you.

Shoulder design:

An overlapping pleat:

While all ring slings are made with the same basic design -- a length of fabric with two rings on one end -- the design of the shoulder can make a big difference for the individual wearer. There are many ways to fold fabric in a ring sling -- for more, check these out -- and each one has its pros and cons for different-sized wearers.

My own design is an overlapping pleat. It means you can spread the fabric out as much as you need, as seen in the photos in the gallery, to distribute the baby's weight over your shoulder and back. The shoulder area is between 6-8 inches wide (4-6" where it leaves the rings), and ideally caps your shoulder from collarbone to just below your shoulder bone. In my personal experience, this keeps the fabric from spreading out too much (i.e. over my whole upper arm) while allowing it to spread out more than a narrower design, which may cause shoulder pain in women who, like me, have broad or rounded shoulders.

Of course, it helps to try a few different styles to see what you like best, so if there is a babywearing group group in your area, see if you can make it to a meeting and try different slings out. Of course, all ring slings are made to go over one shoulder, not both. If you are looking for a two-shoulder carrier, which will distribute your child's weight over both shoulders, please see my links page for some suggested types.

Wondering how a sleeping baby sling compares to more expensive brands? Here are a few photographs of basic construction details -- how the rings are sewn in, and the hemmed edges -- so you can see how they differ.

Edge finishes:

Rolled hem finish (what I use)

Is my sling sewn inside-out? The hemmed edge of the sling is sewn so that it is on the outside in the body of the sling. This is not a mistake, but a comfort factor: I have found fewer red marks on my children's legs when the hems are on the outside than when they are inside. This also means that the hem does not show in the tail of the sling. Since the bottom edge of the sling rarely shows, and the top edge is generally folded by wearing anyway, I feel this is a good tradeoff. I do fully finish the hems with a 6mm (1/3") hem, so I don't think it's a bad look (see samples at right). If you would prefer to have the hems inside in the body of the sling (so that they show on the tail, and they may dig into your child's legs), please make a note of it when you order.

Serged edge (black to show detail)

Why not a serged edge? I don't use serging on woven fabrics (like twill, tencel, silk, etc.) since I don't personally like the way it looks, and my serger can't produce the fully finished look that some serged-edge slings have. I do use it on knit fabrics (the cotton interlock, for example) as it can provide a more comfortable edge finish on stretch fabrics; for the interlock slings, I use what's known as a rolled edge, so there's a contrasting-colored hem on the edges, with curves at the bottom. If you prefer your woven sling edges serged, please make a note of that in the comment section of the order form -- and do keep in mind that it won't look the same as a Zolo or Oopa sling!

rings:

I use only rings made by SlingRings.com -- after testing a number of different kinds, including the heavier steel rings, I came to the conclusion that these are the safest and most attractive available, and that they are well worth the small extra cost. I will select the color that best complements your sling fabric, unless you have a special request. SlingRings are made especially for baby slings, and are weight-tested to 250 pounds. Both the nylon and aluminum rings are very safe, will not break with even abnormally rough usage, and are quite attractive!

Aluminum ring colors: I do not always have the full range of colors for every size in stock, which is why I don't have a selector for them in the checkout section. Unless you feel very strongly about a particular color, I will choose the one that best complements your fabric's color when sewing your sling. (Ring colors may vary slightly from those pictured; each batch is a little different. Also, because of the anodizing process by which the color is applied, the darker rings may have two tiny plain dots where the ring was held while being anodyzed. This is not a flaw, but an artifact of the manufacturing process.)

Left to right: Black, Bronze, Purple, Pink, Red, Gold, Green, Turquoise, Blue, Slate, Silver

Ring sizes: Each type of ring also comes in three sizes:

Aluminum:				Nylon:
Diameter	Small	Med	Large	Diameter	Small	Med	Large
Inner	2.25"	2.75"	3.25"	Inner	2.25"	2.75"	3"
Outer	2.5"	3"	3.5"	Outer	3"	3.325"	3.625"

I will choose the size that is most appropriate for the material the sling is made of -- thinner materials will slip in larger rings. (There are three sizes in Nylon; the larger two just overlap a lot.)

Washing notes:

Just as you'd wash any new garment for yourself or a baby before using it, I would recommend washing your sling when it arrives, unless it's noted in the description that the fabric has already been washed. (It's not germs that are an issue so much as the sizing and dyeing residues that can remain in the fabric; these will wash out, but until they are washed, the chemicals remain on the fabric.) As much as I would love to offer a prewashing service, it's just not practical: I have a home washer and drier, and while washing 10 yards of 60" wide fabric is possible, drying it becomes problematic. The fabric twists, pulls, wrinkles, and ties itself in knots; and then when it's finally dry, folding it is immensely difficult. 10 yards (the quantity I buy most often) is 30 feet; I don't know if you've ever tried to neatly fold that much fabric, but it's not something I enjoy doing! So usually I leave the fabric on the bolt it comes on, or folded as it is from the store, until I'm ready to sew. That way, it doesn't get as wrinkled as it does when I try to wash it.