This week's message:
The store is temporarily closed to new orders -- my little brother is getting married on Saturday, and I am baking their cake/cupcakes. Plus Independence Day is on Monday, so with all the work I currently have in the queue and the number of days I won't be sewing, I need a bit of time to catch up :) Orders that have been received already and WCRS that arrive by Wednesday should be sewn before Friday; WCRS that arrive after that will be sewn next week. Thank you for your patience!
While the store is closed, the "add to cart" button is removed to keep new orders from being placed.
WCRS Information Page: Everything you need to know about having a wrap turned into a sling
Important! If you do not fill in the appropriate information on the order form, I will use my best judgment in sewing your order. This may not be what you would have wanted, and I will not accept responsibility for errors that could have been prevented by reading and understanding this page. Please be sure you fill in all the options when you order, or email me if you don't understand what is being asked after reading the explanations below.
First things first: Can I convert your wrap?
Is my wrap long enough to split into two slings or a sling and a shorty, and how long can they be?
This calculator is solely for long wraps that will be split into two carriers. If you are having only a single sling made, please see "How long of a piece do I need to send you to have it made into a sling?" below. For all calculations, please keep in mind that the result is approximate -- the actual length of a wrap can vary from the stated length, especially if it's been washed or dyed. Measurement of sling sizes is from the center of the taper, not on the long or short edges.
If you're trying to figure out what length wrap to buy to make two ring slings, leave the "length of wrap in centimeters" field blank, and the calculator will tell you how long the wrap needs to be for the two slings. I'm afraid that doesn't work for a sling and shorty split, but you can use the "1 sling/1 short wrap" selector to find out how long you need for the sling, and then you can add the shorty length you're hoping for to that number.
How long of a piece do I need to send you for a sling?
This calculator will allow you to figure out what size sling I would recommend for you, and then use that to show how long a piece I will need to make the sling you want. Select options on both halves first, then hit "calculate!" If you want to make changes to your answers, be sure to click "calculate!" each time for an updated estimate.
What does "depth of taper" mean? If my wrap is 470cm and my sling uses 206cm, will my wrap be 264cm long?
"Depth of taper" refers to the difference between the long and short
sides of the wrap, on one end of the wrap. The sling length is calculated from the center of the taper, so with deeply-tapered wraps, a medium (75") sling could have a short edge that's 63" long and a long edge that's 87" long. Please keep this in mind if you're using a wrap with very deep tapers, as it's best for the taper *not* to end up in the rings. In the image below, you can see how the remaining wrap piece is cut. So if you have a 470cm wrap and I cut it to make a size small sling (using 206cm, measured from the center of the taper), the remaining shorty will be less than 264cm because of the taper depth. The taper depths of various major wrap brands are listed below.
For reference, Ellaroos are straight across with fringe and Easycares are straight across, for a 0" taper; BBSlens and Natibaby wraps have a 4-5" taper; Oscha tends to be between 4-6"; Hoppediz are about 5"; Didymos are between 7-10" depending on the weave; Girasols and Dolcinos are generally 8"; Storchenweige, Pavo, and Lenny Lamb wraps are 10"; Kokadis are 16-18"; Ellevills are upwards of 24".
What kind of wrap should I have converted? Are there any you don't recommend for a sling?
There are two main categories of wraps: woven (where the threads are in some
kind of over/under pattern, whether simple or complex) and knit (where the fabric
is made like t-shirt fabric -- similar to the way sweaters are made, but smaller
in scale). In general, woven wraps are more supportive than knit wraps. Most
common knit wraps (like Moby and Sleepy wraps) are not suitable to be turned
into slings, because of the amount of stretch and the tendency for them to be
on the narrower side. I have slingified Wrapsody Bali Stretch wraps, but would
not recommend a pleated shoulder with these due to the damage the needle can
do to the fabric when it punches through so many layers -- a gathered shoulder would be a better choice for those, and is available at Zanytoes. I do not recommend turning Wrapsody Bali Breeze wraps into single-layer ring slings, because gauze does not hold a weight-bearing seam well. If you'd like a double-layer sling made from a Breeze wrap, Sweet Pea Ring Slings does beautiful and very well-sewn double-layered slings, and has worked with Breeze wraps in the past.
Woven wraps vary in their width, weight, and the number of threads per inch.
Unlike bedsheets, a lower thread count is desirable in a sling, because it will
have more "give" and be more comfortable; since most woven wraps have a fairly
low thread count, they make lovely slings. Generally speaking, if you can do a comfortable single-layer carry in a wrap, it will be fine for a ring sling.
A caveat: a lot of new users are now sending me very thick wraps -- including older Pavo weaves, Natibaby linen-heavy blends, most handwoven slings, and several other startup wrap companies' wraps -- to be made into ring slings. I really don't recommend a thick wrap for new users. It's much harder to thread and safely adjust a thick wrap, and if you're new to adjusting a ring sling to start with, it's going to be even harder and more frustrating with thicker fabrics. If you choose to have a thick wrap converted as your first sling anyway, please seek help from a very experienced user before you try it with your baby! If the sling is not adjusted properly, there is a very real possibility that it will be unsafe, and because this is something I recommend against to start with, I must completely disclaim liability for incidents that occur with an improperly-adjusted too-thick ring sling. I know that these wraps are frequently recommended because they're "toddler-worthy" or "cushy" or whatever, but they really are much harder to use than thinner wrap conversion slings.
Can you convert my hand-woven wrap piece?
Most of the time, yes, provided the weave isn't too loose (as that can cause thread-shifting along the seamline in an Eesti shoulder, which I think made it worse). There are also some that are simply too thick, and my machine is unable to cope with them. If you have a handwoven piece you want to convert, please send me a photo before placing an order, since if it arrives here and is unsuitable for a sling, I'll need to return it to you. Also most handwovens tend to be on the thicker side, so will be correspondingly harder to thread and adjust, but if you're willing to put in the extra time, they can be fine to use.
I'm buying a piece of someone else's wrap. What do I need to know?
I now have a form you can send to the person you're buying the piece from. The file includes a cutting diagram and the other information the seller will need to ensure the piece is cut and mailed correctly. Save this PDF file to your computer, and open it with Adobe Reader. When you've finished filling out the fields, save the file, then click the little envelope in the toolbar at the top to email the completed file directly to the seller (although I would recommend emailing it to yourself first to make sure the fields are actually completed). The seller can include a printout of the worksheet with the wrap piece if she would like to, but it's not strictly necessary if you've already placed your order with me. The form does not replace the order you place on my site -- it's meant to help the seller correctly cut the wrap piece.
The form should help a lot, but if you choose not to use it, here's what you and the seller need to know. First, make sure the piece you're buying will actually end up being the length you want. Many sellers will measure a wrap piece along the long taper. That's fine for an actual wrap where both sides will be the same length, but when having the piece made into a sling by me, it's not the measurement that counts. I assign sizes by the length at the center of the taper (as shown in the diagram above, under "depth of taper" question). For example, if you're buying a piece that the seller says is 75" long so that you can have a size small sling, find out if that's on the long taper, short taper, or in the center. If it's along the long taper, the sling will actually be much shorter than a small when it's finished (depending on the taper depth). The other thing that happens sometimes is that the piece will be cut on a taper, especially if the original wrap has been chopped to make a shorter wrap. In that case, if they measure along one full rail (and not from the shorter edge where the piece was cut), the piece will actually be shorter than stated by the entire taper depth, since the new cut taper has to be removed to make a straight edge for sewing in the rings.
The second issue is detailed below in the pattern orientation section. If the piece you're buying is from a wrap with an asymmetrical element (like animals, scenery, or stripes), find out which way it's oriented. Below, the smiley faces can be right side up or upside down depending on which side of the wrap was cut, and if it was cut opposite your preference, it will have to be flipped right-side or inside-out to get the orientation you want.
Third, as with any second-hand purchase, make sure everything is disclosed that should be -- broken threads, weaving flaws, stains, weaknesses in the fabric, etc. I have gotten wraps with lots of animal hair, wraps with broken threads, food stains, odd smells, and a host of other peculiarities, and all I can say is that none of those things are picked up here (we have no pets, my studio is kept clean and food-free, and I take the pieces out of their original bags only long enough to sew and re-package them), so if they're on your wrap when it gets to your house, contact the seller for details.
Can you still do wrap conversions?
There are new regulations for carrier testing (part of the CPSIA -- Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act) that went into effect on September 29, 2014. This was the implementation date of the ASTM standard for mei tais and SSCs, and ring slings and wraps will not be affected until the separate standard that addresses them goes into effect sometime in 2016. The standard for ring slings and wraps will probably be mandatory in late summer 2016, and at that time, I will no longer be able to accept customers' used wraps for conversion. I will still be doing new WCRS with the caveat that the wrap *has* to be brand-new, and has to be among the brands AND weaves that I've tested with. This will likely mean there will be only a few brands I can convert when the standard becomes mandatory. However, as that milestone has not yet been reached, I will continue to do customer-sent and/or used conversions until I am no longer legally able to do so.
I will be submitting my in-stock fabrics, including the French twill, linen, and Easycare/Dolcino wraps, for testing. I will probably not be able to do all the organic fabrics (they're all different weaves and weights and will require separate tests for each one). I will likely be working with retailers to test their biggest-selling WCRS fabrics, including standard and diamond-weave Girasols, probably Dolcinos, and perhaps one or two other brands. I will not be able to do conversions on anything I haven't tested, and anything used is also a no-go. This will mean that the sling market will change drastically, in that those one of a kind conversions will no longer be allowed, nor the legacy-wrap type conversions. I'm sure there will be unscrupulous (or unknowing) people who will continue to do them, but they will be in violation of federal laws, so I will not be among them. And no, sending your wrap to Canada will also not be a workaround, since any product sold into the US has to comply, so your Canadian converter can't legally send it back to you.
Can you make a tablecloth into a ring sling and shorty?
Yes, but if the tablecloth hasn't already been split and hemmed, it will be as a custom-sewn sling and separate shorty, rather than a WCRS, because of the far more extensive cutting and hemming involved in splitting the tablecloth.
Selecting options and placing your order
(Orders are placed at http://sleepingbaby.net/proddetail.php?prod=wcrs when the store is open.)
How much does it cost?
Prices update automatically as you select options on the WCRS purchasing page, but the wrap conversion itself starts at $25, and hemming a shorty adds $12. Insurance, having the Eesti shoulder done, and rehemming the WCRS also add to the cost.
What size sling should I get?
I have a comprehensive page about sling sizing here. In brief, I suggest ordering by your standard t-shirt size. Heavier women who are also shorter than about 5'6" may prefer to go down one size from their t-shirt size (e.g. if you're 5'1" and usually wear an XL shirt, a large or even medium sling will generally be sufficient).
What do I put in the "wrap description" field?
Please tell me what color and style of wrap you have -- "Didymos" or "German wrap" isn't very helpful to me, since there are so many different colorways. I receive somewhere between 50-100 wraps per week to make into slings, and I need
to be able to tell them apart. I am also not terribly familiar with all the different
companies' names for their wraps, so a description, like "Brown with orange edges" is
much more helpful to me than "Hoppediz Costa Rica". I'm getting better, but can't
guarantee I'll be able to identify a wrap by its brand name or the name of the
I have other things I want you to do -- where do I put that?
For any other details I will need to know when sewing, please use the "special instructions" box even if we have previously corresponded about the details of your sling; I use the order sheet, not emails, to do my sewing. However, you do not need to repeat the information in the "additional information" section at checkout. This also means that if you don't write something in the "special instructions" box, I am unlikely to remember to do it, so please be thorough when placing your order! If you email afterwards, I might remember to change your order, but I might not be checking emails, and I have unfortunately missed requests that came in via email after the order was placed.
What side should I have out in the body of the sling? Does it matter?
My standard procedure is to sew the sling with the hemmed edges facing outwards in the body of the sling. That corresponds to the image on the left-hand side. I find this to be very slightly more comfortable for the wearer and baby, since then the hem isn't facing into you -- if your skin is very sensitive, this can be an issue (although for the vast majority of users, it is not). From a cosmetic perspective, the tail is usually more exposed than the body of the sling (since the bottom edge should be bunched up under the baby's knees anyway, and the top edge can be rolled so that the hem does not show), so that having the hems out in the tail is more obvious than having them out in the body of the sling.
However, if your wrap has a wrong side (this is not usually an issue for BB-Slen, Girasol, Ellaroo, and BaraBarn wraps, just the jacquard-woven wraps like Didymos and Natibaby), this does mean that the wrong side is out in the body of the sling. If the wrap is tapered, this does also affect the side the long end of the taper falls on, so if that is important to you, please hold the wrap up on yourself as if you were wearing a sling to decide which way you want it sewn. If there is a conflict between the right/wrong side out and the desired pattern orientation on a wrap that doesn't have an obvious wrong side, I will favor the pattern orientation over any hemming preference.
Please do your best to describe which side you want facing out in the body, as otherwise I will need to email for clarification, resulting in delays.
There is another consideration when splitting wraps that have a directional element -- please read below because this happens on a fairly regular basis.
Do I have to pick a primary shoulder? Why would I do that?
You do not have to pick a primary shoulder -- the one you will be wearing the sling on the most often -- if your sling does not have a directional element (like fish, birds, or asymmetrical stripes), if you will be switching shoulders frequently, or if the directional element doesn't matter to you. As an example, the same sling is used in both figures at right -- worn on the right shoulder, the red rail is on top; and worn on the left shoulder, the pink rail is on top. (The bottom rail doesn't show when worn because it's tucked under the baby's knees.) So if you specify in the special instructions box that you want the pink rail to be on top, I need to know which shoulder you'll be wearing the sling on, since the color shown on the top rail will change depending on which shoulder you wear the sling on. This "primary shoulder" is only for orienting patterns, since both shoulder styles can be worn on either shoulder. However, if you specify an orientation preference, I must know which shoulder you will be wearing the sling on -- selecting "doesn't matter" means I can't take the orientation into account and will have to email you for clarification, resulting in a sewing delay.
There is another consideration when splitting wraps that have a directional element -- please read below because this happens on a fairly regular basis.
I'm splitting a wrap into two pieces -- is there anything else I need to know about pattern orientation?
Another consideration is for wraps that are being split into two slings. If there is a directional element (asymmetrical stripes, animals, etc.) and both slings are sewn for the same primary shoulder (see above), then one sling will have to be hemmed-side in and the other hemmed-side out. In the image at right, I have used a jacquard-woven wrap with a happy face pattern, where the faces are right-side up only in one directions, as an example. If both buyers want the faces to be right-side up on their right shoulder, then the second piece has to be flipped over so that the hemmed side is facing in on the wearer's body. Both slings cannot be hemmed-side out with the same pattern orientation on the same shoulder. This is less of an issue with striped wraps (example here), which can simply be flipped inside-out, than with wraps that have a pictoral design (like fish, cityscapes, or other animals). Ideally, both buyers will either select opposite shoulders with the same hemming preference; or the same shoulder with opposite hemming preferences. They cannot both select the same shoulder and the same hemming preference, because the wrap piece has to be flipped one way or the other. If you are splitting a wrap that has a directional element, please discuss these specifics with the person you're splitting the wrap with, or I will have to email you both when the wrap arrives in order to make it to your specifications. If you order two slings from the same wrap and one of them needs to be rehemmed to get both right-side up on the requested shoulder but you have not selected the sling rehemming, the second sling WILL be sewn upside down for that shoulder. I have made this as clear as I possibly can in these FAQs and if you click that you've read the WCRS info page (that's this page), then I will trust that you understand this!
Further explaination is available here if this is not clear enough.
What do you mean by "shoulder style" and which one should I pick?
The option for shoulder style refers to the way the rings are sewn in. Standard SBP is what I've been doing for years (as shown on the "construction" page). Eesti-style is a modified gathered shoulder, with two small pleats on the edges and a gathered section in the middle. I recommend the latter if you have already tried an SBP sling and didn't find it to your liking, or if you have tried an Eesti and found that you prefer it. I do not recommend it for users who haven't tried either, since it can be a slightly more difficult style to use, as it spreads out a great deal more and can cause issues if you don't know what you're doing. Floating gathered is new to SBP, but it's very comfortable, and the placement of the seam makes it easier to use than a standard gathered shoulder, in my opinion. Retro SBP pleats are the way I used to do them -- there are fewer pleats and they are spaced further apart. This makes the shoulder wider and can be more comfortable for wearers with broad, sloping, or rounded shoulders.
Can I add insurance? I want to make sure I get all my money back from the Post Office if the package is lost.
For insurance, please select your value for the total package value in the options on the ordering page. Because the cost of having the conversion done is less than the actual value of the wrap, I need to know how much you feel it is worth in order to add the appropriate amount of insurance coverage, and the pull-down option adds the correct insurance cost to the order total. If you are having multiple slings returned to you, please add the total insured value to only one of the slings -- otherwise, the additional charge will certainly be higher than necessary to cover the package for the stated value. You do not also need to click the insurance button at checkout -- selecting the value on the WCRS order page is all you need for insurance.
I live outside the US. Can I still get insurance?
Insurance is not available on orders shipped via First Class Mail International. The USPS does not offer the option. You can get insurance on Priority Mail International for an extra cost... but not, for some reason, on those sent by Priority Mail International Flat Rate.
Will you send my scraps back? Do I have to select the "Sling with >1m of scrap returned" to get my scraps?
All scraps are returned with the slings. The selector that deals with scraps is just if the piece is going to affect the weight of the package -- a long scrap of more than 1m in length will usually bump the weight up to the next shipping price interval, while a small piece will not. I do not keep scrap pieces, so if you don't get anything back, it means there wasn't anything left over after cutting and sewing. I have to admit, it hurts my feelings a little when someone puts on their order form "Please return all scraps!" or similar. For one, it means they haven't read the wrap conversion product page (it says right on the page that I will return the scraps), and it also feels like they don't trust me to be honest and return their property to them. I have no use for scraps and no time to sell them, so even if I weren't an honest person, I'd have no reason to keep them. If your scrap is longer than a meter and affects the weight of the package, but you have not selected that option, I will send an invoice for the difference and expect it to be paid promptly.
Do I, in fact, need anything hemmed?
If all you're having done is a WCRS with a wrap that has a normal taper, you probably won't need additional hemming -- in that case, select "No additional hemming needed". You do not need to select this if ONE short side of your wrap is cut, but the other is hemmed, unless the pattern orientation would be incorrect for you (and there's enough length to re-cut the taper). Having one side cut is pretty typical for sling-length pieces, and that's the end I would use to make the sling, so it doesn't need to be re-hemmed.
If you will be splitting a wrap with a directional element and one will be upside-down (please read the section above labeled "I'm splitting a wrap into two pieces -- is there anything else I need to know about pattern orientation?" above), AND there is enough fabric to re-hem the second sling, then you would select this to have the sling re-tapered to fit the requested shoulder/pattern orientation.
Also, some people prefer a wrap with the tail cut straight across instead of on a taper; and some wraps, like Ellevill, have an extremely deep taper, which can make the sling feel very long even though it's the correct size at the center of the taper. In either of these cases, you'd select "Re-taper sling (if original taper is too deep or if cut straight across)".
If you want the remainder of a long wrap (please use the calculator above to figure out what lengths you can get from a wrap) turned into a shorty after part has been made into a sling and both portions will be sent to the same address, select "Re-taper/hem shorty, move MM [middle markers], and send along with sling". This will add $12 for the hemming service, plus add to the total shipping weight, so that the final shipping charge is calculated correctly. If the shorty will be sent to another customer, please place two orders, or I will have to invoice for additional shipping.
What's the WCRS info page and why should I waste time reading it?
Haha, trick question -- you're reading it now! Congratulations, and thank you -- I truly appreciate it when people take the time to read this before ordering.
Shipping (to SBP and to you):
Do I need to do anything to prepare my wrap before sending it to you?
If you have pets or are a smoker, please wash the wrap (without fabric
softener) before sending it to me -- we are very sensitive to pet dander, cigarette
smoke, and perfumes here! Because of our sensitivities and to keep my sewing area clean for all the sewing I do for others, wraps that arrive excessively dirty (lots of pet hair, overwhelming perfume scents, or other accumulated detritus) will be returned unsewn at the sender's expense.
Please make sure that its long edges are already finished
(hemmed or selvage, either way is fine -- all Didymos, Storch, Girasol, and most
other major brands are already finished); if it needs hemming, it's a custom
than a redo. If your wrap has a fringe at the end of the tail, I will leave
it in place unless you specify otherwise; likewise, if it's tapered, I leave
the taper unless you'd prefer it hemmed straight (which will result in the loss
of several inches of length overall).
Please do not send wraps braided or, if they have been braided, please iron (or wash/dry/fold neatly) before sending. Braided wraps are extremely wrinkled, which means either the final pleating job looks messy, or I have to iron your wrap for you. I will invoice $5 for the extra time that ironing takes me, as it's not a trivial job and takes me at least as long as sewing the sling, and when I receive 20-40 orders per day, time is necessarily money.
How do you recommend shipping a wrap?
- USPS: for smaller parcels, their rates are generally better than UPS or FedEx, especially given the average shipping times.
- Most full-length wraps will need to go by Priority Mail (since above a certain weight or dimension range, First Class is not an option).
- Post offices in the US offer free shipping materials for Priority Mail -- please take advantage of these.
- Many of my customers use two of the Tyvek envelopes, one inside the other for extra protection.
- You can also use one of the Flat-Rate boxes (the mediums are generally a good size for a large, full-sized wrap).
- If you use a box, please also put the wrap in a sealed plastic bag. I have received non-bagged wraps that have had moisture damage from liquids spilled on the box.
I do not recommend:
- Paper flat rate envelopes; they're flimsy and don't hold up well, even with a lot of tape.
- Padded flat-rate envelopes:
- These are available online, and are more sturdy, but please don't use those with a full-sized wrap; it's very difficult for me to open the envelope without damaging the wrap. (They are fine for cut pieces that fit easily.)
- Stuffing a long wrap in one means they're often completely wrinkled when they arrive, and then I need to invoice for the time I spend ironing.
- Also, my PO's manager is extremely strict, and often checks pricing on packages I receive. If the postage paid is not correct, I get a Postage Due notice. This often happens with padded flat-rate envelopes if the sender uses the paperboard flat-rate option when generating their label online, especially with PayPal (which doesn't have an option for the padded flat-rates). There is a $0.90 difference between paperboard and plastic flat-rate envelopes, and I end up paying this about 5 times a month. I will assess a $1 fee in addition to the actual amount of postage due for these packages. Please be sure you are selecting the correct postage for your package before you send it!
- The wrap at right was in a non-free Ready Post cushion mailer, which is stuffed with recycled cardboard, and when punctured, those materials leak into the envelope and make a huge mess.
Can I have a third-party send you a wrap directly? If so, when should I place my order?
If you are ordering a wrap specifically for a conversion, you may have it sent directly
to me. Please place your order so that I have your information before the wrap
arrives -- it's much easier for me than trying to track people down when the wrap
gets here. If your wrap is a preorder, I would recommend waiting until you receive shipping confirmation from the seller before you place an order; otherwise, the wait can be quite long, and I can only do full refunds within 60 days of purchase on my store.
How should I address my package, or ask a third-party seller to address it to you?
Please address packages as follows:
[Recipient's Name, if different from sender's name]
C/O Jan Heirtzler, sleeping baby productions
12 Davis Ave.
Durham, NH 03824-1940
It is MUCH easier for me to sort through the many packages that arrive at my house daily if I can tell who it's for at a glance. Otherwise, I have to spend a lot more time sorting through existing orders, and the longer that stage takes me, the fewer slings I can sew each day.
What information do I need to include in my package, or ask a third-party seller to include?
Please include your name and/or order number with the wrap (or
ask the sender to do so) because I do get many, many wraps each day, and sometimes
more than one of the same colorway. You need not print out the order confirmation email; I have all the info here and there's no need to waste the paper. If you are buying the wrap from a third party and having them send it to me, please ask them to include a note with your name and email address in the package. I've gotten many wraps with no identifying information and no existing orders, and that's very confusing for me, resulting in a longer wait time while I try to figure out who it's for. If the customer has not placed an order before the wrap arrives here,
I also need the buyer's email address, or I can't let them know the wrap has arrived. Please be sure that the sender gives the name under which the customer will be placing the order! If they give another name, I am unlikely to be able to match the wrap to the order!
I'm splitting my wrap with someone else. What do I need to do?
If you are sending a wrap to me to be split with another person and the finished slings will be sent to two different addresses, please place
two separate orders (usually, each person places her own order) -- shipping is
calculated based on the weight, so if two are included in the same order, there's
not enough shipping paid to ship to two addresses, and I have to invoice for
the additional costs. If both pieces are being sent back to you, a single order
is all that's necessary (but do make sure you add two conversions to your cart
or I'll have to invoice for the second).
Can I cut my wrap before sending it?
If I will be hemming/converting both sides, please do not cut the wrap
before sending it. It is generally more difficult for me to work with already-cut wraps. There may not be enough
continuous length for the accessories that have been ordered, and often, cuts are made at an extreme taper, which changes the usable length and may make the piece too short for the buyer's requested size. This doesn't apply if you are splitting it and not sending both pieces to me -- only if I'll be sewing with both pieces. However, if you will be cutting the wrap before sending me a piece, please take a moment to read through my wrap cutting directions -- this makes a nice, even cut, and while it takes a bit longer than just eyeballing the cut, it's a lot easier to work with!
I'm also ordering an in-stock sling. Will you send them separately?
If you are purchasing a wrap redo and an in-stock sling in the same order, I will wait to send your in-stock sling until I have received your wrap fabric. If you want the in-stock sling sent before the fabric for your wrap conversion arrives, please place two orders -- otherwise, I will have to invoice for the additional shipping.
How do I order two slings from the same wrap?
If you want your wrap split into two ring slings and both are being sent back to you (or to a single address), you can use the "quantity" box below the options to add two to your cart, if the options are the same on both. If you want different things done to each sling, add one with its options to your cart, then click "back" a couple of times and add the second sling with its options to your cart, then complete your order. If they are being sent to two separate addresses, however, please place two separate orders, because shipping is calculated on a per-order basis, and if you add two slings to your cart and request that the second be sent to another address, I need to invoice for the additional shipping and the process creates a lot of extra work for me.
How long do I have to send you my wrap? Do I lose my spot if I don't send it in time?
There is no time limit for when you can send your wrap or wrap piece. I would rather get it within the 3-week period between when the order is placed and the next time I open the store, but if it doesn't arrive in that period, that's all right. If it's been a couple of months since you placed the order, I'll email and make sure you're still interested. Also keep in mind that the PayPal refund period is only 60 days. If you decide to cancel the order after 60 days have gone by, I won't be able to do a proper refund (per PayPal) and will need to send the funds, minus the PayPal fee which they will have taken, as a payment instead.
What size rings do you use?
Most wraps will
require large diameter rings -- 3" and above. Anything smaller, and the fabric
just won't budge when you try to adjust it. Please keep this in mind when ordering,
or if you plan to send your own rings. If you are petite, you may find that large
rings take up a lot of room on your torso, and may want a thinner wrap (such as Vatani stripes or Ellaroo wraps) that will
accommodate medium-sized rings instead. I would not recommend nylon rings with
the majority of woven wraps; they are much more bulky than aluminum rings, and
combined with the weight of the fabric, they make a really big lump when worn.
Can you make my sling reversible?
Yes and no. For thinner wraps (Girasol and other brand striped wraps, as well as some thinner jacquard-woven wraps), I can do a reversible Eesti shoulder, where the raw edge is turned under and the tags are sewn at the side of the sling (so they can be hidden in the shoulder folds when worn). However, thicker wraps (Pavo, Didymos hemp or linen blends, thicker Natibaby wraps, etc.) cause a real strain on my machine, and I've sent my good machine into the shop for repairs trying to get through all the layers, so I can't do a reversible shoulder on those wraps. Because of the number and thickness of folds on the standard and retro SBP pleats, I can't do those reversible at all unless it's a very thin wrap (like Oscha linens). There seems to be a rumor going around that it's the blend that allows a reversible shoulder, but it's the thickness. A thick wrap is too much for my machine regardless of the fiber blend. All non-reversible slings have a serged edge, so it won't unravel or look untidy. This is also less bulky and makes for more comfortable wearing than having a turned-under edge.
Can you make my sling with a gathered shoulder (or something else not listed on the Construction page)?
No, I don't sew gathered shoulders. There are a lot of other manufacturers who already do so (including many of the wrap manufacturers themselves), and out of respect for them, I prefer to stick with the styles I know best. I also don't enjoy sewing gathered shoulders, and prefer not to do so for that reason as well.
My wrap has some flaws in it. What do you need to know?
Assuming there's enough length in the piece when the flaws are taken into account, I can probably still make the sling. However, if there are flaws you want me to avoid or include in the sling or shorty, please mark them with tape, a sticky note, or something else obvious. I have a tight sewing schedule and it really cuts into my time when I have to search the whole wrap for the flaw. At the very minimum, if you are unable to mark the flaw, please provide me with measurements or other location information so I can find them easily.
Sizing, lengths, and accessories:
How does the taper depth affect the length of the sling?
that have tapered ends will be measured
from the center of the taper, so one edge will be 6-10" longer than the other. Some wraps, including Vatani, Zara, and Amazonas, have extremely long tapers,
where one side is 18" or more shorter than the other. This can mean that
even though the sling's length to the center of the taper is 75" long (for
example), the shorter end will be only 65" long, and the long end 85" long.
This can be awkward to wear, so please make a note of the taper's depth and how
you would like it to fall on your body when ordering. I can re-cut the taper and hem to make the taper less steep. Most wraps (Didymos, Girasol,
Storchenweige, Neobulle, etc.) have a much more gentle taper, so this difference
in length isn't as much of an issue.
Can I use a long ring sling to do back carries?
Using a long ring sling for ruck-under-bum back carries: I do not personally recommend using a long ring sling to do this style of carry, and must completely disclaim any liability for incidents that occur when using this position against my recommendation. Back carries, especially those done with infants, are inherently more risky than front carries, whether you've been using a sling for a week or for years. I would encourage you to get comfortable with front carries first, and if you want to do back carries, purchase or make a short wrap for that purpose, rather than buying an exceptionally long ring sling to do it. If you would ordinarily wear a size medium, but purchase an XXL sling so that you can do ring sling rucks, and then you find that you are only using the sling for front carries anyway, the tail is going to be super-long, and that's a tripping hazard. I know this is a very popular idea right now, but it's really recommended only for experienced, seasoned babywearers, and I must discourage you in the strongest terms from doing this carry -- or for purchasing a too-long sling for the purpose -- if you are a new user.
I'm having a ring sling and a shorty made from one long wrap. Can I specify the shorty length?
If you are having a wrap split into a ring sling and a shorty and your shorty
has to be a certain minimum length, please make a note of that and I will cut
the wrap portion first, ensuring it is the correct size. Otherwise, I will go
by the ring sling length that you specify. If I don't know what your minimum
wrap length is, I can't really be responsible if it's too short. Please measure carefully -- keeping the taper depth in mind -- before selecting the sizes! There is a delay in sewing time if I need to email you because the wrap isn't long enough for the lengths you've chosen.
Can I get a pocket or a snap-on pouch with the sling?
If your original wrap is long enough, you can add some accessories like
a snap-on pouch or zipless
please be sure there is enough fabric first, however! Zipless
pockets will be made from a horizontal slice of the fabric unless you request
otherwise and there is enough fabric to take a vertical piece -- I need at least 28" of excess wrap (length beyond what's required to sew the sling) to do a matched pocket (vs. 10" for a perpendicular pocket). More information about the pockets is shown on the pocket detail page. On a wrap
with two different sides, the pocket can be matching or contrasting; please specify
which you would like in the "additional information" section. The default is to use the same side that shows in the tail.