While things have changed for ring slings in the regulatory sphere, all my custom-sewn slings have passed the sling standard, and the clearance section, having been sewn before the standard took effect, is exempt.
My next task is a website refresh, so stay tuned for that! Current turnaround is one business day for in-stock slings.
More about splitting wraps and right/wrong, right/left, up/down orientations
This is complicated, I know, but it's important if you have a wrap that has a directional element -- this would be any wrap that has asymmetrical stripes (and it matters to you which color is on top when you're wearing it) or a design that would be obviously upside-down -- and you want a particular side of the wrap facing out. Many jacquard-woven wraps have two distinctly different sides, with one color predominant on one side and the opposite color predominant on the other. In the example below, there are brown hedgehogs on a white background on one side, and white hedgehogs on a brown background on the other side. Both sides show the pattern, but one side may show the hems while the other is smooth on the edges.
When you're splitting a wrap, whether both sides are for you or whether you're splitting with a partner, you need to take two factors into account.
1) Which shoulder you will normally wear the sling on -- right or left shoulder. In an informal poll, about 2/3 of right-handed people wear on their right shoulder (and 2/3 of left-handed people on their left shoulder) while the other third wear on the shoulder opposite their dominant hand. (Ergonomically, it's best to switch back and forth, but people often find that it feels correct on one shoulder and weird on the other.) The slings are sewn identically for either shoulder; it's only the pattern that makes the difference and is totally cosmetic. If you have a sling where the animals are right-side up on the right shoulder, they will be upside-down on the left shoulder unless the sling is turned inside-out (so that the opposite side shows).
2) Which side of the wrap you want facing out -- in this example, the brown side or the white side. This will be important only for cosmetic reasons, but it will determine which half of the wrap is used, or, as below, if your half needs to be re-hemmed in order to get the desired combination.
Here is our original wrap, shown with the white side right-side up on top, and then flipped over (as would happen if you had it laid out on the ground and just flipped it along the long edge). The cut is shown as the dashed red line, and the pieces are labeled.
Piece one is right-side up, for a right-shoulder sling, with the white side out.
It would be right-side up for the LEFT shoulder with the BROWN side out (flipped vertically, as above).
Piece two is right-side up, for a LEFT-shoulder sling, with the white side out.
If it is flipped vertically, so that the brown side is showing, it will be right-side up for a RIGHT shoulder sling.
In order to make the sling right-side up for the LEFT shoulder with the BROWN side out, the existing taper must be removed (that's the dashed line on the right), and a new taper must be cut and hemmed (or it can remain straight across if preferred, but must still be rehemmed), as with the dashed line to the left. If it's simply left as above, it will be cosmetically correct for the right shoulder, not the left shoulder.
This will result in the loss of several inches from the piece as well -- it adds up to the total taper depth plus the amount used in hemming. So if the wrap has a 10" taper and a 1/2" hem, the new cuts will add up to 11" lost on the piece. I can make the taper less steep if requested, or just hem straight across, in which case only 1/2 the taper depth's length will be lost.
Because recutting and rehemming the taper takes me extra time, I do charge an additional $4 for the service. If you do not select this service in the order (that's "Sling: re-taper (for too-deep tapers or for design orientation)" in the options), I will not recut the tapers and your sling will be for the incorrect shoulder if you've selected a particular side out. Usually this happens when a wrap is split into two slings for one buyer. Please make sure your wrap will not need re-tapering before your finalize your order, as this is not something I will fix for free.
For a single sling, a size 2 wrap (around 270cm) is plenty of length for a sling and even an accessory or two. It takes about 254cm (100") to make a 3XL sling, and the vast majority of users will use a much shorter sling than that. If you want to split a wrap between two people and have two slings made from it, it should be at least a size 4 (370 cm or 145", enough for two short slings, no accessories) though at least a size 5 (420 cm, 165") would be necessary for two size medium slings. I would recommend a size 6 (470 cm, 185") or size 7 (520 cm, 205") if you want two slings plus any accessories. Of course, a used wrap may have been machine-dried, leading to some shrinkage, and a brand-new wrap will be longer than advertised, in which case I'll sew it a little longer to account for that, so none of those lengths are set in stone.
Please check out the calculator at the top of the page -- you can use it to figure a number of different combinations. The table below is available as a general reference, but the calculator will nearly always be more accurate.
Very Important Notes: (please read them all!)
- The wrap lengths shown are the "ideal" lengths, and may not be the actual length of a used wrap, which may have been washed and dried so that it has shrunk. I've frequently gotten size 5 wraps that are long enough for only two *small* slings, not two mediums, for example. If you are buying a used wrap, please email the current owner for its *exact* length, since that can be significantly shorter than what it's marked as.
- This is also true of wraps that have been dyed. There is frequently significant shrinkage involved in that process (i.e. I've had a size 6, which should be 185", come as 170" long), and although some of the length can be regained when the sling is worn, the tail of the sling isn't under stress and therefore won't stretch out unless further stretching of the whole sling is done.
- The lengths shown include 3" for sewing in the rings -- they show the amount of wrap that I need to make the sling its correct finished length.
- Leftover includes the full length of the tapers -- actual leftovers will probably be between 3-7" shorter, depending on the depth of the taper.
- Didymos wrap sizes shown; other wraps have different sizing, but the lengths shown are fairly standard for wraps.
|4||xs||68||xs||68||10||1 zipless pocket|
|420 cm||xs||68||s||73||24||2 pockets/pouches|
|165"||xs||68||m||78||19||1 pocket/pouch (or 2 narrow ones)|
|s||73||s||73||19||1 pocket/pouch (or 2 narrow ones)|
|470 cm||xs||68||s||73||44||2-4 pockets/pouches|
|s||73||xxl||93||19||1 pocket/pouch (or 2 narrow ones)|
|m||78||xl||88||19||1 pocket/pouch (or 2 narrow ones)|
|520 cm||xs||68||s||73||64||3-4 pockets/pouches|
|xxl||93||xxl||93||19||1 pocket/pouch (or 2 narrow ones)|